After I wrote, what I last wrote to you, the winds got light, sometimes non-existent. And whatever wind is out here, is coming from Ahe. We are only 23 nautical miles away, but let’s go ahead and call it 2,300. This is the longest two day sail of my life. I think Ahe must be filled with sea nymphs and leprechauns and fairies and dragons. The most mythical places are always the most difficult to get to.

Tacking east is insane, it’s like sailing on a treadmill. I get nowhere against the currents. If you were to look at my little sailboat from above, it would appear to spin in circles, because it has no speed, at all, that direction.

Also, perhaps I’m just exhausted, but I can’t get my staysail and jib in balance when I tack east. This in not a problem going north, and was never a problem yesterday, or any other day of my sailing life. The two in tandem created such havoc, that I was forced to drop the staysail, which severely reduces my speed upwind.

I don’t care how fast I go anymore. I’ve already decided we won’t make it before sundown, and I don’t enter treacherous places for the first time at night. No mam, that’s just a recipe for disaster. Might as well roll over and let the wolves have at ya.

Anyway, I’m climbing a hill and my body is numb. I haven’t slept much. When I awoke from a nap at 6 a.m., we were on a perfect heading for Ahe. We were done with this tacking nonsense, the wind was on our side, escorting us in. We were gonna be in the lagoon by 2 p.m. We were gonna be drinking stardust with the sea nymphs by now!

Oh how quickly things can change. Never forget that. Never get comfortable where you are. Never celebrate until it’s really time to celebrate. These are notes to myself, but I include them here so you can remind me of these facts as needed.

We will get there… but when will we get there? When we get there! You dig?

Your slow moving friend who is stuck in a Tuamotus time warp.

P.S. –
Barry Spanier and Kerstin Wild Thing, I dedicate this sail to y’all and eagerly await the magic that you have both found in Ahe. Thank you for your guidance and encouragement along this beautiful blue road. I can’t wait to finally plant these seeds!


  1. olivia
    kudos and warmth to your hardy effort. when you can surf the pass alone, dive in the clearest water you can imagine, help with the chickens, collect the honey, string pearls that vibrate with strange colors you love, and plant those seeds, you will see that we weren’t bullshitting you. of course there are other places (and i have anchored in many throughout the Pacific), but none i have experienced that seem to be at the center of some strange vortex of energy as Ahe’. i’m sure this is one of the reasons why Bernard Moitessier established himself there. don’t forget to call Patrick for assistance at the pass.


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