PAPER MOON

It’s sugarcane cutting season in Fiji and the air is crisp and cool and perfect, like it always is in that space between seasons. I sleep beneath a wool blanket and wake up to a spastic symphony of birds singing  against a hot pink sky, and the splashing swarm of a bait ball beneath my boat. …

CORPSE FLOWER

You know what I love about the sailing community? You can be at a party and say, “Hey, let’s all go to Vanuatu!”  And someone responds, “Yes and after that, Papua New Guinea, and then Indonesia.” And we mean it. And we’ll do it. Soon. I feel like a boomerang. I’m back in the Denarau …

TOTAL MAGIC

YANUCA (Pronounced Yanutha) I made it to the islands of fire walkers. I’m on a coral-skeleton covered beach on Yanuca Island in Beqa Lagoon. We are building a bonfire with drift wood and palm fronds. The sun just set and the teal water turned black. Heat lightning is flashing from every cloud in the sky, …

THE CORAL COAST

I’m sailing along the Coral Coast, towards the island of fire walkers and mongoose. Do you know how good the wind feels in my face? Like silk spun straight out of the caterpillar. Juniper’s not fully fixed but she’s fixed enough. So what if my 12 Volt power outlet is cooking cables and my autopilot …

NIGHT IS MORE NIGHT

My little sister, Mary, is in Fiji and we’re waving the goddess flag. We’re on a long boat captained by a man named Scoby. He’s cornfed with a crab smile. I just discovered that I know his mom, Emma. She’s one of the best octopus hunters and we once floated next to each other and …