Blog

While writing Koko Head & The Flying Vagina, I was reminded of a moment at sea that scared the bejesus out of me. I mentioned the incident briefly in Surfing the Deep Blue Sea, but I didn’t tell you how much it melted the interior of my mind, because to...

Chapter 1: Koko Head I am back in Oahu working on Juniper, for better or worse. The sun has faded the colors of everything that was left on deck. The sun is such a potent thing.  Eventually everything in my life will fade beneath it, even me. I will fade...

Everybody knew that the Coral Sea was haunted by the ghost of the heartbroken. And the ghost who rattled the loudest among the pulsing of the whales and the sharks and the sea dragons, was named Viola. Viola’s story is a sad story. It begins once upon a time on...

I’m currently back in LA, carrying the sea in my pocket and following the flow of land. The flow of land…. What is the flow of land? Is it the weeds growing in the cracks of concrete, the smoke of a forest on fire, a river of lights, a snake...

I had been warned, but nothing could have truly prepared me for the sail from Kaua’i back to O’ahu The day after the forest, Sam and I snorkeled, climbed palm trees that grew sideways, and watched an endangered monk seal beach itself. Have you ever seen a wrasse? That species...

Sam and I locked Daisy( the dinghy) to a palm tree and decorated it with leaves and flowers. It was an offering of protection, because people had lost dinghies to the hands of thieves on that shore in Hanalei Bay. But that can happen on any shore.  We made our...

Sam and I entered the mouth of Hanalei Bay 36 hours after leaving O’ahu, it was around midnight. I was nervous to anchor at night because I had never done it before. If I was alone I would have sailed until sunrise and then approached, but Sam and I checked...

I was itching to sail away from Waikiki. So when all of the boat work was completed, I decided to sail over to Hanalei Bay in Kaua’i. Sailing between the Hawaiian islands can be hellacious. These islands are in the middle of the ocean and the water around them has...

The Waikiki harbor is both paradise and purgatory.  I suppose that is just the way the life is, contradictory opposites constantly colliding to achieve balance. Could you love the light had you not known the dark? If you had not gotten lost in the valley, would you have climbed that...

The seas effects on me are greatest when I’m alone. I imagine it’s because I am in a more heightened state and can more prominently feel that energy that pulses through everything. That energy that is neither fixed nor permanent. That energy that holds in its realms the possibility of...

Chapter 1- Moon Time It was my fault for going surfing during my moon time. Some say it matters, others say there is no evidence that it does. What is for certain is that my bioelectrical charges were amplified by my blood in the seawater like a whisper into a...

My mom flew back to Arkansas and it’s my first time living on the boat since arriving to Hawaii. My sea and land hallucinations have all subsided and life feels new but normal. The mind is such a delicate thing when alone at sea. Mine were mostly auditory hallucinations, except...

I am standing on sand in Hawaii. I can’t believe that I just crossed the Pacific Ocean alone. It feels surreal. Is this me? Am I dreaming? How did I do that?  My last day and night at sea were the roughest. This is what it looked like..:  9 A.M...

Today I have been in squall after squall of the most severe kind that I have seen. I can no longer fight The Grey Cloud Carriers. They are winning and have stolen all but the breath from my body. I am 70 nm away from shore and I won’t make...

I see two little white tropicbirds, with tail feathers longer than their bodies, flying somewhere towards a world of fish. One bird does not flap in front of the other. They are synchronized the way that lovers are. With minds, wings, and bodies intertwined in an exquisite romantic lunacy. The...

From within my cocoon at sea, I uncoil my body like a caterpillar. I am fattened by leaves and petals that promise a future of winged flights, still I crawl. I wonder what has really called me here, into both the substratum and surface of the spirit kingdom. The kingdom...

The sunsets lasts as long as the day and ricochet across every cloud in the sky. I see ancient Egyptian symbols in the world above me. From the pyramids to sphinxes and Pharaohs. The wind of the heavens molding them and morphing them and eventually carrying them away. Beneath it...

Yesterday I went through squall after squall. I call them The Grey Cloud Carriers. The Grey Cloud Carriers are cold-hearted ninjas. They creep in, kidnap the sun, eat every patch of blue in the sky, and then confuse the wind until it spins every which way to Sunday. They play...

Time flows in reverse. I watch waves collapse into themselves as they rush backwards. The sun is the moon and the clouds are all sinking. I can see that the sky is filled with rain, but it must be falling upwards. Nothing living is in sight. The air is too...

*This ones for Budder Wilson who is curious about safety gear, sail changes, sleep patterns, food, filming, etc. Before departing I met with a couple of people who had already sailed solo to Hawaii. One was my old dock neighbor Christian Williams, who has a great YouTube channel and several...

I’m just out here zig-zagging my way around the high and trying to stay on the edge of what’s left of Henrietta. I move in long jibes to and fro. Day by day getting closer to my destination. My bird, Pluto, is back. This time on top of my bimini...