sailing in search of an endless sunrise
The vagabond inside of my heart has led me to a grass ocean in Uruguay. These days I find it best to do whatever the vagabond in my heart says. Wherever it tells me to go, I go. I go before tomorrow is today. I go. I go consumed by wanderlust. I go. I go …
While writing Koko Head & The Flying Vagina, I was reminded of a moment at sea that scared the bejesus out of me. I mentioned the incident briefly in Surfing the Deep Blue Sea, but I didn’t tell you how much it melted the interior of my mind, because to tell it is to relive …
Chapter 1: Koko Head I am back in Oahu working on Juniper, for better or worse. The sun has faded the colors of everything that was left on deck. The sun is such a potent thing. Eventually everything in my life will fade beneath it, even me. I will fade until I am nothing but …
https://vimeo.com/333168639 Everybody knew that the Coral Sea was haunted by the ghost of the heartbroken. And the ghost who rattled the loudest among the pulsing of the whales and the sharks and the sea dragons, was named Viola. Viola’s story is a sad story. It begins once upon a time on the far side of …
I'm currently back in LA, carrying the sea in my pocket and following the flow of land. The flow of land.... What is the flow of land? Is it the weeds growing in the cracks of concrete, the smoke of a forest on fire, a river of lights, a snake in the grass, the blood …
I had been warned, but nothing could have truly prepared me for the sail from Kaua'i back to O'ahu The day after the forest, Sam and I snorkeled, climbed palm trees that grew sideways, and watched an endangered monk seal beach itself. Have you ever seen a wrasse? That species of fish is hard to …
Sam and I locked Daisy( the dinghy) to a palm tree and decorated it with leaves and flowers. It was an offering of protection, because people had lost dinghies to the hands of thieves on that shore in Hanalei Bay. But that can happen on any shore. We made our way to the Na Pali …
Sam and I entered the mouth of Hanalei Bay 36 hours after leaving O’ahu, it was around midnight. I was nervous to anchor at night because I had never done it before. If I was alone I would have sailed until sunrise and then approached, but Sam and I checked the charts and he was …
I was itching to sail away from Waikiki. So when all of the boat work was completed, I decided to sail over to Hanalei Bay in Kaua’i. Sailing between the Hawaiian islands can be hellacious. These islands are in the middle of the ocean and the water around them has that middle of nothing strength …
The Waikiki harbor is both paradise and purgatory. I suppose that is just the way the life is, contradictory opposites constantly colliding to achieve balance. Could you love the light had you not known the dark? If you had not gotten lost in the valley, would you have climbed that mountain? In the absence of …
