There is heartache in the wind, the sky is made of stones, and my boat is an unknown planet. The edges of Cyclone Judy are thrashing all around and Cyclone Kevin is hot to trot on her tail. Judy has worked her way up to a category 4 and I’m clinging onto a mooring ball …
SHOCKWAVES
I’m anchored off of Namotu Island. It’s five acres of sand in the shape of an avocado with bures (wood and straw huts) and boats and surfboards and baby turtles. The bottle blue surf of Swimming Pools breaks all over it. It’s a surfer’s slice of paradise. There are waves but I’m too weak to …
Ship Shape
The beauty of life is that everything is always up in the air and with the shape of your lips and thoughts you can change its direction. It’s as if life was the wind and our bodies were boats and our words were sails. So, what is the shape of your ship? Mine is the …
The Lightning & The Whale
Back in 1961, Betty and Barney Hill were abducted from their car in the woods of the White Mountains. Two hours vanished. They awoke- clothes ripped. Dirty. Caked in a mysterious dust. Their heads were foggy. Their reality undone. Their night an incomplete story. They remembered being chased by a light that dropped out of …
The Scariest Thing At Sea
While writing Koko Head & The Flying Vagina, I was reminded of a moment at sea that scared the bejesus out of me. I mentioned the incident briefly in Surfing the Deep Blue Sea, but I didn’t tell you how much it melted the interior of my mind, because to tell it is to relive …
Where the Hell am I & Where is Juniper?
I'm currently back in LA, carrying the sea in my pocket and following the flow of land. The flow of land.... What is the flow of land? Is it the weeds growing in the cracks of concrete, the smoke of a forest on fire, a river of lights, a snake in the grass, the blood …
Waikiki
The Waikiki harbor is both paradise and purgatory. I suppose that is just the way the life is, contradictory opposites constantly colliding to achieve balance. Could you love the light had you not known the dark? If you had not gotten lost in the valley, would you have climbed that mountain? In the absence of …
Harmonic Current
The seas effects on me are greatest when I’m alone. I imagine it’s because I am in a more heightened state and can more prominently feel that energy that pulses through everything. That energy that is neither fixed nor permanent. That energy that holds in its realms the possibility of both creation and destruction. That …
The Tiger Shark &The Dog Bone
Chapter 1- Moon Time It was my fault for going surfing during my moon time. Some say it matters, others say there is no evidence that it does. What is for certain is that my bioelectrical charges were amplified by my blood in the seawater like a whisper into a megaphone. Thump-thump, thump-thump, thump-thump On …
Water of Pearl
My mom flew back to Arkansas and it’s my first time living on the boat since arriving to Hawaii. My sea and land hallucinations have all subsided and life feels new but normal. The mind is such a delicate thing when alone at sea. Mine were mostly auditory hallucinations, except for the odd things happening …
