THE ROAD BETWEEN FEAR AND FANTASY

I’m driving towards Walvis Bay, wondering what it would be like to be the chief’s fourth wife. Would I be treated like one of his cows, or like a chiefess? Would the dance be mutual, and would he be all animal or soft and gentle? Would the other three wives get jealous, band together, abduct...

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WILD CATS & THE HIMBA CHIEF

WILD CATS I see a sign for wild cats and a lodge. I pull over and bump down a dirt and gravel road. The place is called Eldorado. It’s very Mexican-chic, with flowers everywhere. I ask the receptionist about the cats. A blue tractor towing a metal trailer with seats pulls up. Two men in...

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SANDPAPER

I arrive back to Walvis Bay all desert-dirty, with my head still soaking in that sci-fi world of acid sunsets, dunes, and ice plants. A desert is an ocean without saltwater, but its rainbow is flashier. Dramatic, colorful, stunning, vast, strange. Is there any part of the ocean that isn't always shifting? Tides, currents, waves,...

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BIG DADDY and THE DEAD MARSH

There are more colors in this desert than there are names for. The colors evolve, twisting, turning, and bending with the sun. There are shadows too. There are always shadows. Plenty. The desert shadows are long and dark, but never wicked. I sit on a hilltop and watch the sunset drench Moon Mountain in hues...

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BETWEEN DUST and LIGHT

I'm in the front seat of a 4x4 shuttle bus heading south towards a desert with a fossilized landscape called Sossusvlei. It means Dead End Marsh. The driver is letting me DJ. He particularly likes Billie Eilish and is from a part of Namibia that speaks in a series of clicking sounds. In the back...

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WHERE THE DUNES MEET THE SEA

I’m in the front seat of a 4x4 with a man named Connie Burger. His daughter Nikki is in the backseat. She’s about my age. Gert, who is helping me repair Juniper, is also back there. Speaking of repairing Juniper, I forgot to tell you that my Hydrovane was making all of these lateral movements...

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NAMIBIA MATCHES MY PINK ENGINE

Everything in Namibia matches my pink engine. The jellyfish. The pink pelican named Lady Gaga that lives on the dock and is the size of a miniature horse. The flamingos. The pink salt lakes. The desert sand that blushes pink at sunset and moves as if by sorcery in swirling patterns shaped by the ocean...

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