Author: wildernessofwaves

I’m still on a mooring in Knysna, where seals play around my boat all day long. Where the seahorses cling to seagrass beneath me. Where the sea around the entrance can be a devil or an angel, depending on the wind and the swell. Where the Stone Age people painted on bone and stone, and...

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I weigh anchor in Plettenberg. I’m all rested up, so my mind won’t play any more tricks on me. The sun is dazzling high, and the seals are all over the water, waving goodbye. My reality feels like a fantasy. I’m almost to the exit, with a thousand waving seals in my wake. The sea...

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Seabirds have been flying low all day. One just took off from the water and he was so close that I could see the droplets of water dripping from his wings. A really pretty day out here today. Sun and blue. The wind is mild and the swell is still high. I've dropped the mainsail...

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I am so tired that I forgot I was heading west and found the sunset surprising. I thought maybe something was on fire on shore. I've slept three hours and jibed 100 times in 36 hours. I've only consumed water, grapes and a few ginger cookies on account of my jitters. I'm like the zombie...

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I’m sitting in my underwear on the settee eating ginger cookies. It’s 21:44 and I can’t sleep. It’s raining out and the wind is light but frigid. The sailing is smooth. I’m on a close reach with 11 knots of wind and what feels like a bit of current. I’m moving at an average of...

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I have arrived up the Buffalo River in East London. Japie, who runs the Buffalo River Yacht Club, said, “You survived the worst of South Africa’s Wild Coast. We lose a vessel once every 18 months on this stretch of water.” The Shangri-Las are signing on the radio. Behind Japie there is a wooden dinghy...

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I’ve been up since 0300. I’m a nervous wreck. Today I will set sail down the Wild Coast of South Africa from Durban to East London. It’s 278 nautical miles, give or take, and the stretch of water I’m sailing is referred to as “The Black Hole” on account of the number of ships it’s...

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There is a powerboat blasting through the marina, blaring the song “Let Me See Your Tootsie Roll.” I’m still in Durban, waiting on a long enough weather window to get 280 nautical miles farther south. Durban is somewhat of a drag; it’s known as a “gangster's paradise.” There are only a few places that are...

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“Durban Port Control, Durban Port Control, this is sailing vessel Juniper,” I say to the faceless human somewhere in Durban over VHF channel 9. A female voice responds: “This is Durban Port Control, go ahead Juniper.” Me: “I am a sailing vessel at the safe water buoy seeking permission to enter.” Them: “Permission granted.” It’s...

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I’m back out in the blue. Or grey, rather. Grey is the color of this day. Thunder is rumbling off the land, the swell is a sideways rodeo clown, and I can’t for the life of me slow down. I’ve only got 18 knots of wind and I’m moving at 7 to 8 knots with...

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