Blog

I hardly slept, narrowly escaped another cargo ship, and got escorted by dolphins in the golden sunrise. Seeing dolphins never gets old. Nor does the sun rising or setting. Nor does the vision of a flyingfish flying. When those things get old I suppose I’ll abandon the waves and move...

I am on a deserted island in the middle of the Solomon Sea where the mama Hawksbill turtles come to lay their eggs. I feel like I’m trespassing into a world both sacred and bizarre. The island I am standing on is a sunken volcano. Imagine flat sand cays in...

I’m loosing my mind. Where is it? I left it back there with the dolphins as soon as the wind shadow hit me off of Saint Isabel Island. There I was in the New Georgia Sound a.k.a “The Slot,” making good way. I had just passed the Buena Vista Islands...

A wave just threw me off of the throne, or head, or toilette, or whatever you want to call it. I left Port Mary at 5 AM. It was still dark and there was a man fishing underwater- the green glow of his flashlight pulsing as I headed straight out...

It’s a new day. There is sun and blue. The conditions are the same as yesterday, but the wind has a bit more guts to it. Enough guts to go skydiving if it wanted. Sometimes, after the squalls, the sea feels like sludge. It gets all lumpy and Juniper and...

I woke up at 4:30 AM with moon eyes and a gooey honey head. The limitless guru that lives inside of my dreams didn’t want to let me go, but I have good winds to get going and going I’m gonna get. An hour later I’m gone and leaving an...

It’s sunrise and raining and the entire sky is a dusty yellow rose. I’ve never seen the moon look like this before. It’s like I’m staring at the whole wide world through hip sunglasses or one of those colored visors that black jack dealers wear. I throw a kiss at...

As I sail up along the west side of the bunny rabbit the wind really pipes up. 22 knots and climbing. I’m still head sail only and juniper is moving good, but in this wind the mainsail would really set her in her groove. For instance, sometimes I’ll catch a...

This is my 57th time to see the sun rise alone at sea. I am scared all the time out here. My heart was like some magic jumping bean and my stomach was all tornado twisted just before I left Vanuatu. I don’t know why. It’s not like this is...

It’s 4 in the morning and I can see an alien-green tinted star out of my bow hatch. I’ve never seen a star that color, maybe it’s not a star at all. Whatever it is it reminds me of Christmas. The other day a woman on top of a waterfall...

Did you see the super blue moon? The sky was all cloudy here so I didn’t see it, but I felt it. It hit me like some supersonic stone and made me go all kukoo bananas. It was probably better for you that you were not near me during this...

I’m sailing hard on a hard wind, though then again the wind always feels a lot harder when your hard on it and there’s always a certain point when I’m too close for comfort to it. Now a dark cloud is here and it’s changing the direction of everything. All...

Hey honey bunny. I’m still cruising around Espiritu Santo. Don’t you like that name? Holy Spirit. Holy Ghost. Holy Light. There are probably a lot of ghosts here. It was a base for American soldiers during WWII and you should see the stuff that sank in waters beneath me; tanks...

My life has been a volcanic jungle orchestra since I last wrote. It’s been a wild ride and there is much to tell. I must break it down into notes made of days and you can read it in pieces and parts at your leisure. Day 1 I am weighing...

The daily death of the sun is such a pretty thing to witness, don’t you think? I wish I bled all pink and purple and tangerine like that. And I wish you could measure me by how colorful my clouds were. The Meskalyne Islands had beautiful sunsets and I loved...

We pull up behind the island. The wind is mellow, but the anchorage is 25 meters deep! I don’t have enough chain for that. There is a mooring. I grab it. A red banana boat comes over to me. There are five men onboard. The man in charge is in...

For the love of sun, I’m hard on the wind again. I’m on my way to Maskelyne Islands. I’m towing my old Avon dinghy behind me and my fridge is still thirsty for fruits and vegetables and beer. It’s bloody early in the morning, we weighed anchor and left the...

LAND DIVING There is a man standing on top of a rickety stick tower, 30 meters high, arms wide, wearing only his namba (that’s a penis sheath, honey). He reminds me of Christ on the cross, not because of the way he is hung, but because of the way he...

There aren’t any other sailboats along this coast.  If there were I’d ask “How deep did you drop?” I’m always asking that. I like to drop as shallow as I can. Five meters tops. This sea floor is made of volcanic black sand and a manta ray lives here, somewhere...

The water is purple. It’s 4:30 AM. I feel like I’ve been hit by a comet- glowing and fuzzy. Even in the dark I can see the outline of Emae. You know what this island looks like? Like a three boobed woman in a bullet bra. And she’s all densely...

I’m in seventh heaven, darling. This morning I woke up, looked outside and I saw a man in the water with a fat head. I mean his head looked like the freaking moon, all white like that too! And I was like who is that loon, because it’s winter here...