Blog

I’m sailing away from the Kadavu lagoon. I’m leaving on a pure east wind and heading northwest. I must go with the wind. It’s always better to go with the wind. It’s always better to go with the water. It’s always better to go with the tornado. Name one thing...

Last night I had a bad dream with a turtle in it. I’m still in Kadavu, attached to the Mothership. The coral beneath me is Easter egg colored and the sunset is a dusty yellow rose. I’ve got seaweed in my hair, sand on my thighs, and mosquitos are buzzing...

Some stories are hard to tell, because to tell it, is to relive it. This is one them. It starts out with me on top of a coral rock, howling like a banshee, and ends with a boat robbery, where I am again howling like a banshee. THE ROCK: I...

It’s six in the morning. I’m anchored over a sand bar with only 5 feet of baby blue water below the keel. I can see seashells and sea cucumbers and yellow leaves that lost their trees. The islands next to me look like a pregnant lady who is very circular...

YANUCA (Pronounced Yanutha) I made it to the islands of fire walkers. I’m on a coral-skeleton covered beach on Yanuca Island in Beqa Lagoon. We are building a bonfire with drift wood and palm fronds. The sun just set and the teal water turned black. Heat lightning is flashing from...

I’m sailing along the Coral Coast, towards the island of fire walkers and mongoose. Do you know how good the wind feels in my face? Like silk spun straight out of the caterpillar. Juniper’s not fully fixed but she’s fixed enough. So what if my 12 Volt power outlet is...

My sister left Fiji after we rolled in mud like pigs and visited a Hindu temple where we stared at murals of a four-faced creator. Now I’m delirious.  The purity of the sky’s wilderness has been eclipsed by rainstorms and the hot red sunrise can’t find it’s way through these...

My little sister, Mary, is in Fiji and we’re waving the goddess flag. We’re on a long boat captained by a man named Scoby. He’s cornfed with a crab smile. I just discovered that I know his mom, Emma. She’s one of the best octopus hunters and we once floated...

I see a man on a kayak in the shallows. I paddle over to him. His name is Jonah. He’s in his late 20s with a sunfish smile and he’s collecting sea cucumbers, which are penis-shaped marine animals that sit on the sea floor. He’s after two types of cucumbers...

The past week was a soaking wet mush mash and I felt like one of those eyeless shrimps that lives inside of a volcanic sea vent. The clouds were all thunderheaded and they rose up so high and crept down so close that you couldn’t tell what was what or...

============================================================== WETTER THAN WATER Happy year of the Water Tiger! Over here it’s raining cats and dogs and the wind is whooping like a tramp on a fast train. I can’t see anything. It’s all wet and gray and the sun has stopped rising and setting too, but I’m back...

I’m on my way to the funeral of a Head Man who was murdered by witchcraft. I know so, because everybody says his death was so mysterious that it had to be so. Even the fancy doctors in the capital of Suva. Even all the villagers in Vulaga. Even the...

Here is my life in days….. TUESDAY I get a call. Jack Jack is ready to install my transmission. He brings wood planks and a ratchet puller and bangs on things with a hammer. The shaft gets pushed so far aft someone has so jump in the water to push...

I’m anchored off of Namotu Island. It’s five acres of sand in the shape of an avocado with bures (wood and straw huts) and boats and surfboards and baby turtles. The bottle blue surf of Swimming Pools breaks all over it. It’s a surfer’s slice of paradise. There are waves...

Hi. I’m still here. I didn’t disappear. The holidays were a plume. I saw snow in California and family in Arkansas and I orbited beneath a long full moon that made the dogs go ape and the humans sleep slow. After the festivities me and my five suitcases headed back...

I was naked on my deserted spit of silver sand until a longboat pulled up with two tourists, lounge chairs, an umbrella, a hot picnic, and a bottle of champagne. I was vogueing my way around the shape of the shoreline to get my clothes back on. Imagine their surprise...

I’m in the cockpit of Epiphany off an island called Mama (pronounced: Mana). I just blew the conch shell and said “goodnight sun.” Imagine the quack of a dying duck, that’s how the conch sounds when played by my lips. I see rolling jade hills against a salmon sky and...

It’s a downwind spinnaker ride back to Denarau. The kite is baby blue topped by a sea turtle and it’s catching buckets of wind. Moving us like a cloud. I’m in the galley of Seaglub flipping hot cakes and wondering about the souls of sea gods when a squall creeps...

PART 1- FUTURE CIVILIZATIONS The sail to The Great Astrolabe Reef of Kadavu is a total bash into the wind and it takes all night, but the stars are falling. We do three-hour watches between the two of us. It’s 2 a.m. and my eyes are like petals breaking beneath...

I could never get bored underwater. No saltwater landscape looks the same. I swim 100 yards and everything evolves like sky. The light. The coral. The creatures. The seagrass. The sand. The saltwater breaking against it all. Then again, nothing in nature is identical, from every cloud down to each...

People on the water; they think different. They do different. They are different. I’m gonna ocean my eyes and salt my honey for forever. I’m back in Musket Cove where everybody is on permanent vacation for the rest of their lives. Last night we had a birthday honky tonk with...