Blog

Did you see the super blue moon? The sky was all cloudy here so I didn’t see it, but I felt it. It hit me like some supersonic stone and made me go all kukoo bananas. It was probably better for you that you were not near me during this...

I’m sailing hard on a hard wind, though then again the wind always feels a lot harder when your hard on it and there’s always a certain point when I’m too close for comfort to it. Now a dark cloud is here and it’s changing the direction of everything. All...

Hey honey bunny. I’m still cruising around Espiritu Santo. Don’t you like that name? Holy Spirit. Holy Ghost. Holy Light. There are probably a lot of ghosts here. It was a base for American soldiers during WWII and you should see the stuff that sank in waters beneath me; tanks...

My life has been a volcanic jungle orchestra since I last wrote. It’s been a wild ride and there is much to tell. I must break it down into notes made of days and you can read it in pieces and parts at your leisure. Day 1 I am weighing...

The daily death of the sun is such a pretty thing to witness, don’t you think? I wish I bled all pink and purple and tangerine like that. And I wish you could measure me by how colorful my clouds were. The Meskalyne Islands had beautiful sunsets and I loved...

We pull up behind the island. The wind is mellow, but the anchorage is 25 meters deep! I don’t have enough chain for that. There is a mooring. I grab it. A red banana boat comes over to me. There are five men onboard. The man in charge is in...

For the love of sun, I’m hard on the wind again. I’m on my way to Maskelyne Islands. I’m towing my old Avon dinghy behind me and my fridge is still thirsty for fruits and vegetables and beer. It’s bloody early in the morning, we weighed anchor and left the...

LAND DIVING There is a man standing on top of a rickety stick tower, 30 meters high, arms wide, wearing only his namba (that’s a penis sheath, honey). He reminds me of Christ on the cross, not because of the way he is hung, but because of the way he...

There aren’t any other sailboats along this coast.  If there were I’d ask “How deep did you drop?” I’m always asking that. I like to drop as shallow as I can. Five meters tops. This sea floor is made of volcanic black sand and a manta ray lives here, somewhere...

The water is purple. It’s 4:30 AM. I feel like I’ve been hit by a comet- glowing and fuzzy. Even in the dark I can see the outline of Emae. You know what this island looks like? Like a three boobed woman in a bullet bra. And she’s all densely...

I’m in seventh heaven, darling. This morning I woke up, looked outside and I saw a man in the water with a fat head. I mean his head looked like the freaking moon, all white like that too! And I was like who is that loon, because it’s winter here...

It’s 6 AM. Juniper is a disco, fish are flying across the water, and the sun is a dusty rose thorned by clouds. I feel like I’m in some body of water swimming around, but I can’t see anything and I don’t know which direction I’m going, and all I...

Sometimes I want to write to you, but I’m afraid of what is going to come out of my head, so I don’t. I just stare at the sea and the stars instead. I stare at them so long that they become shy and uncomfortable, as uncomfortable as you feel...

500 DAILY ERUPTIONS I am in the back of a pick-up truck with eight other people. We are sitting on wooden benches and getting bounced around like yo-yo’s. The road is all roots and mud if you don’t own a truck in Tanna, you’re walking. I see a lot of...

I wake up feeling like I’ve been cooked in hot fat and lookin like something that the cat drug in. There are no squalls as far as I can see, but I can’t see that far. The gang is all here at anchorage; Complicity, Libre, and NV (with the orange...

It’s 5 AM. I wake up and wrap a piece of purple dynema on my head like I’m Tarzan or a hippie or a gal named Olivia whose lost at sea in search or herself. I do this ritual every morning on the ocean and every night I take it...

The sapphire of the sea is exquisite today and it makes me feel the same way I feel when I look at a flower. I’ve been chasing the wind all day, it’s an illusive thing that keeps slipping away. I’m out here sailing on scraps of light air. It’s been...

My mystery ghost ship is back. Cleopatra! She is off my port bow, holding steady with me as I go. Nobody aboard has invited me to swim in the pool yet, but the sky is black and moaning and raindropping anyway, so I couldn’t go even if they asked. I...

The sea is a bitter brew today. Sunless. Wind squalls. Frigid. Rain squalls. Gray. Head squalls. Lifeless. Body squalls. The swell is a touch smaller, but I’m still getting bounced around. Now I know for certain what a pinball feels like inside of it’s machine. At the squalls crescendo, the...

I’m just out here staring at the sea and sky. Everything is the color of stone and this day feels just like a night without stars feels. The whole world is howling and biting and I’m wishing it would be different. Its not that it’s not beautiful, every mood of...

I’m eating a papaya and listening to Big Papa when I got a call from Timo, the Italian on the orange flamed race boat. He’s flipping out, “Olivia, there’s a tsunami warning. You need to go to shore and talk to the eel.” From the way Timo’s spewing his words...